Absorber & Camber Inquiry

Dear all Sifu,

how much does an absorber cost? Front? Rear? Is the damping rate standard or different for every car? Basically I should ask…how to buy? Brand can be OEM or reputable aftermarket lah. Car is Caldina.

And 2nd thing, how much does camber alignment cost? Some cars need the use of ‘camber’ nut. I actually thought the camber is adjustable via an upper arm/link.

Will changing absorber affect the camber angle? I think it should not but i can be wrong

THanks so much!

Also, why need to change camber nut? I tot all camber nuts are the same?

changing absorber will definitely affect your wheel alignment… so you should go for wheel alignment everytime you change your suspension…
if the camber nut still in good condition, i think no need change…

why don’t you go to big wheel. they offer a lot of stuff there.

Depends on wat car…i change my saga front 1 set rm140+installation…stock car didnt have camber nut…1 set camber nut RM80…must need camber nut so it will keep ur alignment maintain.ACamber alignment usual cost RM20~RM25 1 side only…2 will cost RM40~RM50.Yes…changing absorber will affect the camber.

[quote=“annunaki”]Dear all Sifu,

how much does an absorber cost? Front? Rear? Is the damping rate standard or different for every car? Basically I should ask…how to buy? Brand can be OEM or reputable aftermarket lah. Car is Caldina.

And 2nd thing, how much does camber alignment cost? Some cars need the use of ‘camber’ nut. I actually thought the camber is adjustable via an upper arm/link.

Will changing absorber affect the camber angle? I think it should not but i can be wrong

THanks so much![/quote]

Thanks guys. Apparently what i understand from suspension systems/geometry is based on the ones fround on radio control ars, such as this one in the pic below. Camber is adjusted by the length of the upper arm. Changine of damers/absorbers will not affect the geometry. Take a look;

http://www.beginningrc.com/img-rc/43_1-rc_suspension_arm.jpg

Then I starting reading your comments and scouted the internet for information. Anyway my friend told me that a camber nut for a kancil is RM15 per piece. In Brunei is selling for BD$35 per piece! But that’s Kancil, not sure whether the nut is universal or not. For those who never knew what a camber nut is, please refer to the following pics;

Explore Siang Aaron
http://www.toplineparts.com/products/images/camberbolt_big.jpg
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x293/ehardware77/automotive/undercar/CamberMeasurement-2.jpg

SO big wheel ah? Ok ok i will check that place this weekend. But seriously, those ‘yellow’ color nuts look so weak it may break or even shatter! Hopefully my camber nuts are still in good shape. Sigh…

Also, what’s the lifespan of an absorber? How long will it last?

no need chamber nut, use adjustable pillow ball mount and run NEGATIVE CHAMBER with NEGATIVE WHEEL OFFSET kaw kaw
http://www.gpiperformance.com/images/HKS%202way%20pillow%20ball%20mounts.jpg
http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/5302/ae86flarefr.jpg
:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

I think my rear is -1.25 ~ -1.5 deg already o… My problem is tayar makan dalam at the rear.

I just want my tires to last long. Hachiroku, wat tires u using? and what’s the lifespan? I’m using Goodyear Excellence for the front annd Bridgestone Sports TOurer for the rear. 225/45/R17 all around. I would say the Goodyear last better than the Bridgestone.

BTW the camber settings on the camber plates can lari or not? Looks expensive also :frowning: BTW thanks for your input!

my setup front -5 deg chamber , 10mm open front toe and full caster to front… with TRD spring 10kg/mm with KYB super special adjustable short stroke… u cant compare mine cos this is completely tires wear setting. how ever, with -5 chamber i still having quite balance of tires wear due to the stress was more on rubber surface rather than chassis roll.
rear is solid axle cant be adj. my front tires are silverstone ftz 195/50/15 n rear bridgestone potenza 020 225/50/15 just change recently.
i dont really drive this car so i cant say which tires last n my differential was full locked. last time i use this as daily drive about 3 months for 1 pair of rear tires… front pair can last for 1-2 years.

fooooh…really gangsta lar ur setting. Locked diff summore… I won’t dare to drive that car man, damn aggressive =P

1 set of camber nut cost rm80…? 1 set is 2 pieces…? or 8…?

touge kid , ur car is ke70 right ? camber nut wont work ehhh u need RCA link match with Adj pillow ball.
specially after u lowered ur car, ur steering system will out alignment n effect car handling

[quote=“JYhachiroku”]touge kid , ur car is ke70 right ? camber nut wont work ehhh u need RCA link match with Adj pillow ball.
specially after u lowered ur car, ur steering system will out alignment n effect car handling[/quote]

yup… my camber still stock, didn’t adjust or lowering… are there any adjustable pillow ball for KE70…?

KE70/AE70 or TE70 suspension mount are same as AE86 direct fit… u need RCA as well, cos when u steer ur car, chassis roll will lean to opposite side. if u lowered, the angle will completely out… most of the after market RCA come with -5 chamber… if u have stiff suspension, just use the negative rca without ajd pillow ball… run negative chamber wont really cause unbalance tire wear, if u r uncomfortable to see ur tiers only wearing at the inner side run a little toe out could help for more balancing tire wear with better corner entry handling too. Its about RM350 for pair sell by KAZUTO GARAGE …

Cusco RCA
http://www.upgrademotoring.com/performance/ae86/rca.jpg
NCRCA (Negative Camber - Roll Center Adjuster) :
Helps to correct roll center on lowered cars, by changing the lower control arm angle. This change affects how the suspension handles the forces exterted by the car. Resulting in a better handling car, due to better weight transfer characteristics.
Adds more Negative Camber, by spacing the front struts outwards at the bottom (hence the NC in NCRCA).
Helps to correct roll center by changing the control arm angle
Also, due to the AE86’s suspension/steering design an NCRCA/RCA when it corrects the control arm angle, it also changes/corrects bump steer. As when it spaces down the control arm it also spaces down the steering knuckle and tierod end mounting point.

[quote=“annunaki”]I think my rear is -1.25 ~ -1.5 deg already o… My problem is tayar makan dalam at the rear.

I just want my tires to last long. Hachiroku, wat tires u using? and what’s the lifespan? I’m using Goodyear Excellence for the front annd Bridgestone Sports TOurer for the rear. 225/45/R17 all around. I would say the Goodyear last better than the Bridgestone.

BTW the camber settings on the camber plates can lari or not? Looks expensive also :frowning: BTW thanks for your input![/quote]

bro, wut i know… negative chamber wont scrub ur rubber til noticeable wear… but with toe in or out will kill ur rubber fast n power lost too. i run about 3-5mm toe in for my drag car last time, it really help for straight line control but i can see the tires wear at the out side was really fast…
Most of the car factory setting got little of negative chamber…
do tire alignment shop know ur car handling by settling all back to 0 ? or they sell u the chamber nut but actually they adjusting ur toe instead… alignment only earn u a bit, sell u few piece of bolt n nut can earn RM80… why not? since most of the driver do not understand how to read the alignment machine screen…
I simple select a car model instead ur car model from the computer, u will see all RED sign out indicate ur alignment was all out… (sh!t… tires shop will kill me) ehehehe